Ryan and I spent the weekend in Bishkek, arriving home kind of pooped last night. We went to a fundraiser on Friday night; Saturday we welcomed Ryan's friend, Pete; went souvenir shopping and went on a long walk around the city; people-watched at a big department store; went to a barbecue joint for dinner Saturday night; then spent a few quality hours drinking draft beer at a pub while watching the live Michigan v Michigan State football game. It was so much fun! On Sunday we relaxed, went on another walk, and ate lunch at another great restaurant. There are a few lessons learned this weekend:
1. Cappuccino remains delicious. I make my own coffee in Osh using locally-bought coffee and a stovetop espresso implement I purchased at IKEA last year. Add hot water and voila! a cafe americano. I don't think a serious coffee snob would be fulfilled but it does the trick for me. Having said that, I daydream sometimes about a thick, double shot espresso (made by a fancy machine), using freshly-ground beans, combined with hot milk foam. I'm drooling right now thinking about it. That dream can come true in Bishkek though. Hooray!
2. Residents in Bishkek are more friendly and less awkward with foreigners than the residents of Osh. Example: there was a yummy coffee stand right outside our apartment which I frequented each morning for espresso and cappuccino (see above). The girl working there was sweet and nice, didn't ask me to take her to America, had heard about USAID, actually believed me when I told her I lived in Osh, and was kind enough to answer my questions about her job. (An Azerbaijani businessman who once lived in America moved to Kyrgyzstan and opened 10 such tiny coffee stands around the city. After the revolution he closed a few but kept six stands open. I was lucky enough to be staying across the street and directly benefited from his entrepreneurial spirit. Hallelujah!) Ryan also noted that he felt more comfortable in Bishkek. People don't stare when we're walking on the street, don't scream out "HELLO!" when you go by, kids don't follow you, and people just generally do not make you feel like an alien. We dealt with the 'fishbowl' effect during our years in remote sites during Peace Corps. The experience isn't as bad as that here in Osh, but still, the attention is at a level where it's difficult to bear at times. So it's nice to get to the big city.
3. Bishkek has restaurants. In Osh we eat meat kabobs (called "shashlik") and the same tomato and cucumber salad each time. Maybe we'll find the Russian soup borscht or some place that serves pizza. But forget about it if you are craving something complex or out of that cuisine variety. Bishkek has barbecue, pork, steak, ground beef, and cuisines (Georgian, Mexican, Italian, etc.). Bishkek markets have a little bit more varieties of produce, too. One has the opportunity to make a spinach salad there, but no way Jose in Osh. At home Ryan and I are left to our own cooking devices. It might be healthier and we enjoy cooking together, but it's not necessarily as exciting as eating out.
4. Our friend Martha is a gem. Martha works for Chemonics' project here in Kyrgyzstan and rents an apartment in Bishkek. I usually stay with her when I'm in Bishkek because the hotels are expensive and they're not as homey. But I realize there is a limit to hospitality norms, so I try not to overstay my welcome. Martha is vacationing in the US right now but still allowed us to stay at her apartment while she was out. Ryan, me, and our friend Pete are super grateful for her hospitality. Her apartment is new, super nice, has fantastic shower facilities, and we were able to make breakfasts and chill in her apartment in a way we couldn't have at a hotel. Little things maybe, but it makes all the difference on a fun weekend. A virtual bow to Martha, a great friend who exhibits amazing generosity!
5. Michigan's football team can still lose, even if you are sending good vibes and yelling support from halfway across the world. Bishkek has a couple of establishments that show ESPN or college football. We were lucky - the game showing on Saturday night was none other than Michigan vs. Michigan State. No such network availability in Osh, so we were stoked to see the game "live" at a bar and with friends. Even a Michigan loss didn't bring Flory down too much. :) We'll get 'em next time, Blue!
Here are some photos from the weekend. Enjoy!

